Inoa

Teden dni potepanja med mogočnimi planinami, prijetnimi starimi mesti in veličastnimi svetišči.

Karanfili; fotografija: Igor Stojović

Nacionalni park Prokletije / Bjeshkët e Nemuna se razprostira čez tri države: Črno goro, Kosovo in Albanijo. Gre za manj poznano gorsko destinacijo, ki je ohranila svojo prvinskost zlasti zato, ker se nahaja na nekoč strogo varovani meji med nekdanjo Jugoslavijo in Albanijo.

V obeh jezikih govorimo o t.i. “prekletih” planinah. Zakaj? O tem kroži več legend. Meni se je najbolj vtisnila tista o treh sinovih, ki so se zaljubili v prečudovito vilo. V bitki za njeno naklonjenost so vsak na svoj način dočakali svoj žalostni konec. Njihova mati, ki je izvedela za usodno vilo, jo je poiskala in preklela njeno lepoto.

Lepota je vseeno ostala v pokrajini, ki jo razkrivajo nekoliko surove gore, prostrane livade s katuni, kjer poleti domačini prebivajo s svojimi čredami, navdihujoča jezera, kot tudi neverjetno prijazni in skromni ljudje.

Plavsko jezero; fotografija: Tadeja Leskovšek

Med jezeri velja posebej omeniti Plavsko jezero, priljubljeno med plavalci. Gre za največje črnogorsko ledeniško jezero, ki je obenem tudi pretočno, saj se v njem voda v celoti zamenja v štirih dneh. Priljubljeno je tudi za ribolov – že več let zapored v začetku julija tu poteka evropsko prvenstvo v muharjenju. Okopati se je tu mogoče zlasti v poletnih mesecih. Hridsko jezero, na drugi strani, pa kiti legenda, da kopanje v njem prinaša večno lepoto.

Plavsko jezero; fotografija: Arben Lila

Na tem majhnem čezmejnem prostoru sobivajo pravoslavni, katoliški kristjani in muslimani. V Juniku na Kosovu nas tako prijazni skrbniki popeljejo po prelepi Sufijski mošeji Alijjei – Halvetije Xhaferije, kjer je mogoče tudi prenočiti. Nedaleč stran pa lahko občudujemo veličasten samostan Visoki Dečani, največjo UNESCO-vo kulturno dediščino človeštva na tem koncu sveta. V bližini samostana smo se ustavili še pri naravnem izviru mineralne vode.

Samostan Visoki Dečani

Večina obiskovalcev pri tem spregleda očarljivo mesto Deçan / Dečani , kjer je mogoče v okoliških vaseh Insiq, Junik in Drenoc spoznati arhitekturno posebnost teh krajev: kulo. Več lepo prenovljenih kul pripoveduje zgodbo o tem, kako so po tradiciji v pritličju bivale živali, v prvem nadstropju ženske z otroki, v gornjem nadstropju pa so modrovali moški člani skupnosti. Kule so dandanes preurejene v prijetne penzione in hostle, v katerih vam postrežejo z lokalnimi dobrotami, zlasti sirom, medom in rakijo. 

Kulla v vasi Drenoc, Kosovo; fotografija: Tadeja Leskovšek

Prav posebno pozornost pa zasluži Kula Redžepagića v Plavu v Črni gori, ki je kulturni spomenik in velja za eno najbolj fotografiranih zgodovinskih zgradb v državi.

Kula Redžepagića v Plavu, fotografija: Igor Stojović

Nekajdnevno raziskovanje v okolici Plava je lepo obogatiti tudi z obiskom Gusinj in Rožaj. Oba kraja sta iztočnica za kulinarično razvajanje in pohodniške podvige. Zlasti planina Hajla slovi po cvetočih livadah.

Spet na drugi strani meje nas Gjakova / Gjakovë preseneti s svojim živahnim, ustvarjalnim vzdušjem. Staro mestno jedro je posejano s privlačnimi kavarnami, vinskimi kletmi in restavracijami. Poletne večere že nekaj let bogati festival stand-up komedije. Tudi sicer so domačini poznani kot največji duhoviteži na Kosovu. Vzdušje v Prizrenu prav tako ne razočara. Prizrenski mednarodni festival dokumentarnega in kratkega filma “DokuFest” je postal prava uspešnica.

Teden dni potepanja po Nacionalnem parku Prokletije / Bjeshkët e Nemuna in njegovi slikoviti okolici je vsekakor ostane v spominu kot nepozabna izkušnja v pristnem stiku z domačini in veličastni naravi.

Sufijska mošeja v Juniku; fotografija: Tadeja Leskovšek

Written by Tadeja L. Colnar

1. Rock-hewn Churches

Lalibela is one of Ethiopia’s most iconic destinations. The UNESCO enlisted rock-cut monolithic churches of king Lalibela have been built over 800 years ago. There are 11 churches located within this amazing cultural heritage complex.
Back in the early 4th Century, several Ethiopian ethnic groups were among the first ones that adopted Christianity. The four kings of Zagwe dynasty left some remarkable traces in ancient Ethiopia. The most famous of them was king Lalibela.

2. Festivals

Festivals in Lalibela are immersive, wholeheartedly embraced by locals, rich in tradition, picturesque and vividly distinctive. In short, they are a must experience.

3. Lalibela Artisans

The legend says that all Lalibela churches were built by king Lalibela himself with the help of angels. An alternative interpretation by historians and scientists would be that it took anywhere between 10 to 40 thousand people to build 11 churches in 23 years.

These hand-crafting skills are still in the genes of Lalibelian people. Pottery makers, weavers, leather goods producers are spotted all around the place.

Leather products by Tadesse                                 Crafts by St. Lalibela Association

Handicrafts by Desta Association

4. Lalibela Painters

King Lalibela is also recognized for paintings which adorn some of the churches. Nowadays, Lalibela has an emerging art scene, waiting to be explored. We met numerous local painters who inspire with love and passion for their art.

 Art by Hailemariam Tadesse

Art by Smachew Mesfin

Art by Tizazu

5. Peace

A place with over 800 years of continuous spiritual ceremonies is almost impossible to find anywhere else in the world. Somehow, it seems that Lalibela is impregnated with peace, also reflected in local people.

Our trusted guide Endayene Ayalew

6. People

Though, this might change with further tourism development, we were particularly charmed by people of Lalibelia. Drivers, guides, hotel owners, receptionists, waitresses, artisans, people on the streets, young and old, most of them radiating unique calmness, kindness and warmth.

7. Great Hikes

Outdoor enthusiasts will enjoy hikes to surrounding mountains, reaching over 3,000 m.a.s.l.. One of our favourites was the hike to Asheten Mariam church high in the mountains above Lalibela where king Lalibela’s prayers to locate the rock-hewn churches from his vision had been heard. 

8. Amazing Vistas

Nature paints each season in its own colours. After a rainy period, in September and October, the landscape turns green, while in the beginning of the year earthy brown colors dominate. Mainly uninhabited valleys look magnificent from nearby hills, witnessing spectacular performances of the sun and clouds.

9. Honey

Ethiopia is known to be the biggest producer of honey in Africa and Lalibela is its honey capital. The land of “honey-eaters” which is the meaning of the word Lalibela, offers delicious varieties of honey in all tastes and colours, from near-white through yellow, gold, amber, dark brown, either liquid or creamed. Delicious!

10. Coffee Ceremonies and Great Organic Food

We tried several simple street coffee shops, decorated with grass on the floor and incensed with a pleasant odour of burning wood. Their coffee was without any exception always tasty.

We were also lucky to enjoy local cuisine at Honey Land Hotel, made from fresh ingredients, served with care.

Lalibela is one of those rare places in the world where tourism is still truly authentic, where moments are savoured and where inner peace is a value!

Good to know:

There are several morning flights to Lalibela from Addis Ababa, operated by Ethiopian Airlines. Lalibela and Gondar are also well connected. Special discount can be obtained, if your international flight is operated by Ethiopian Airlines.

End of September is a good time for visiting Lalibela. After the rainy season, the landscape turns green. October is one of the peak seasons. Lalibela is also very popular among Ethiopians for Christmas celebrations in January.

Foreign visitors’ entrance fee of 50$ to Lalibela churches is valid for 5 days. To comprehend the amazing story behind the churches, it is highly recommendable to explore them with local guides. 

Cliffs of Moher are Ireland’s number one natural tourist sight, attracting more than 1.5 million visitors annually. Reaching the maximum height of 214 meters below the O’Brien’s Tower, they are truly a beautiful natural spectacle.

We were recommended to reserve half a day for exploring several walking trails on the cliffs which was fun.
On our way back we popped into a visitor centre where we were positively surprised by a dynamic and interactive exhibition, offering plenty of information for adults and children alike.

Nature conservation is a big topic there. Local conservators brought it to a very high level. Together with tourism service providers they are committed to making the area a premier worldwide destination for responsible tourism. They are effectively managing and communicating information about waste recycling, energy and water usage per visitor, promoting and educating about “leave no trace” ethics. Even the toilets are showcasing eco facts!

However, traveling to western Ireland only for a couple of hours of cliffs’ experience sounded a bit limiting to us. We were looking for a more authentic experience which would allow us to get beneath the surface of the destination.

And here comes the Burren! Together with the Burren, Cliffs of Moher were awarded UNESCO recognized Global Geopark status seven years ago. As they say, it’s about people, place, learning and livelihood.

The Burren Smokehouse was the place where we tasted delicious cold smoked organic Irish salmon with seaweed and a honey-glazed variation with whiskey and fennel. Mouth-watering!

The Burren Perfumery makes perfumes inspired by the local landscape. And there are many more inspirational stories in the Burren, such as: the Moher stone, the Doolin Chocolate Shop, Linnalla Ice-Cream, several exhibitions and thematic events etc.

Our beautiful planet is full of amazing natural sites. Memorable authentic travel is only possible when people and places go hand in hand together, treating each other with respect. This proves to be the critical link between authentic and responsible tourism.